Garden wrap-up 2011

Well, we finally got a hard frost on Oct. 22 (!!!) and I think I’ll get the last of the potatoes in this year.

This year’s tally was a whopping 1200 pounds of produce! Seven hundred of that (and change) was squash. Those pink bananas were da bomb – prolific, tasty, and craaaaaaazy big. I’d grow ‘em again just for the laugh factor. They are also by far the best producers per square foot of conditioned garden soil (somewhere around 4-5 lb per square foot) because I let them run out into the lawn.

Of course, I can’t eat 700 pounds of squash. I have several recipes I like, and a few even the sweetie will eat, but c’mon. So most of that goes to Food Gatherers. Still – it’s great to be able to grow that many calories of seriously nutritious food with that little effort. I’m happy to be able to donate something besides mac-n-cheez.

Other crops that did well were potatoes (holding tight a 1lb/sf), kale/collards, and sweet potatoes.  Had some good green beans, but my “succession” plantings utterly failed and they all came in around the same time.  Spring peas were great. Lettuce and rutabagas bombed – both probably because they were planted too late for their species. The lettuce went bitter and the rutabagas (planted after the summer heat wave) didn’t really bulk up. Most look like carrots.

I did manage to grow carrots this year, thanks to the wet spring, I think, but none of them taste fabulous.

The best discovery of the season was crowder peas. They are a dry bean of the cowpea family (so I’m not allergic to them), and are they size and shape of a garbanzo bean. They grow 10-15 to a pod, though, and are by far the most prolific dry beans I’ve ever raised. Without staking or anything – I grew 2.5 lb in a 25 sf bed. I don’t know about you, but that’s phenomenal yields for me for dry beans. And did I mention how completely tasty they are? Less “green” tasting than cowpeas, with a skin that holds shape without being tough and nice melty insides. I’m in love.

I also spent far less time in the garden this year than most. I barely went out there in July and August, except to harvest green beans in July. Man, I love raised beds and avoiding Vegetables of Obligation. Though that did lead to me whinging a bit mid-summer that “there’s nothing in the garden” – meaning “I can’t make dinner out of what’s currently ready to harvest.” It was an odd sort of stress, and it’s faded now that no one else has anything in the garden…but I’ve got kale coming out my ears, carrots and a few potatoes and rutabagas to dig, and a cellar full of squash and potatoes.

I did spend an awful lot of September and October digging tubers – I will NOT be planting 350sf of them next year. I think probably 100sf of white potatoes, and maybe no sweet potatoes. Sweets are tasty, but a pain to plant and dig, and relatively expensive. For the record, the Georgia Jets were most prolific, followed by O’Henry (a much less-sweet whitish variety) and Bush Porto Rico.  Together, they produced about 68 lb of sweets. Only about 1/2 to 2/3 of the plants survived to produce any tubers, and ironically, the Jets had the greatest slip fatalities (Hmm, Sharks in the garden?) but the most pounds harvested. At harvest, they were all pretty bland and un-sweet – I’m hoping curing them has improved the flavor, but haven’t tried them yet. (And seriously? Who can cure sweet potatoes at 85 degrees? I’m pulling the plants out because it might FROST tonight, people – 85 degrees is not an option.)

This year also showed our first notable harvest of perennial crops: hazelnuts. I got half a grocery sack of pods, which yielded 3 pints of nuts in the shell. Many are quite tiny (these are the wild native type, not bred for size). I plan to shell them this weekend – I expect a cup of nuts, max. But still – it’s pretty exciting, and I really want to plant some hybrids next spring that we can really count on for full-size nuts. They’ll go on the Berry Berm, which should also produce some strawberries next spring. Oh, and elderberries. Serviceberries will be a few more years.

I still haven’t decided on whether I’m growing tomatoes next year. I may try some determinate ones that all ripen at the same time, or I may repeat this year’s tactic of buying or trading for the tomatoes I need. I had a pretty nice deal with several neighbors: they gave me tomatoes, and I provided squash and canning gear and organization expertise for big canning events. That worked out reasonably well, so I might do it again. Just not sure yet.

I’m definitely doing 100sf of peas (pod and shelling), 100sf of crowder peas, 100sf of potatoes, 100sf of brassicas, and some big winter squash. I’ll fill in the details over the winter. At the moment, it’s a little hard to imagine enthusiasm about noodling out that puzzle, but that’s always how it feels at the tail end of harvest season.

For now, it’s enough to be thankful that the cellar is full of great things to eat, and that we’ve made it through to the rest season again, healthy and happy.

Comparison of raised beds, sheet mulching, and tilling: a three-year study of home gardening methods

The short version:

In the past 7 years, I have built three types of garden beds at my current location.

  1. Plowing of local soil, with horse manure added.
  2. Sheet mulching.  Corrugated cardboard over sod, covered with a variety of materials.
  3. Raised beds. Sides made of composite decking or 2x8s, placed directly on sod, filled with garden blend soil and/or horse manure.

I’ve had all three types for at least three years now, and I’m ready to proclaim a winner: raised beds. Plowing was an abysmal failure.

The details: (After the jump) Read the rest of this entry »

Apartment offering garden space


GOOD signs of the times

Originally uploaded by espring4224

This apartment complex near me is offering free garden space when you rent an apartment! What a great idea. (Sorry for the grainy photo – it was taken at 35mph…)

Signal boost: Edible Avalon garden volunteers needed

Edible Avalon is a great group that’s not only helping to build gardens in the Ann Arbor/Ypsilanti area, they are teaching people how to garden and supporting them through their first gardening efforts. They are looking for volunteers to help mentor new gardeners at their garden sites 1-3 hours per week. Please take a look at the message below from program director Kris Kaul. If you are interested in volunteering, please contact Kris at kriskaul@yahoo.com or 734-644-1520

Edible Avalon is a community gardening program at Avalon Housing properties; Avalon is the largest provider of affordable, supportive housing in Washtenaw County.  Consisting of permanent raised bed gardens, the program provides seeds, plants, and tools.  Volunteer Site Coordinators “adopt” one of the gardens and visit it once a week to share gardening advice and monitor the condition of the garden, with the full support of the Program Coordinator.  Participants also learn how to prepare and preserve their harvests.

There is great demand from tenants for the program; this year we are growing from 5 to 11 garden sites.  We are seeking volunteers who would be willing to give 1-3 hours each week at a regularly scheduled time.  Sign up with a friend or family member(s) and share this rewarding experience.  There are several sites with children’s programming.

If you would like to learn more about the program, please contact Kris Kaul  at kriskaul@yahoo.com or 734-644-1520.

Common questions from new gardeners

GardenersYesterday, I led a garden planning workshop with Preserving Traditions at the Pittsfield Grange. A couple of questions came up more than once, so I thought I’d answer them here in case they interest anyone else.

What material should I use for my raised bed’s walls?

I’ve used both composite decking material and 2″x8″x8′ standard (untreated) pine lumber. The composite has bowed out over the years but the pine hasn’t. I’m not sure how long the pine will last, but after 3 6 years in my Michigan zone 5b garden, it’s not showing much wear or rot. It’s also cheap, easy to find, and there’s no worry about leaching chemicals, so it is my preference for all my new beds. YMMV, especially if you live where it’s warm all year and termites are a problem.

Do I need to dig up the sod/soil before building my raised bed?

No. If you put at least 6″ of dirt and compost in the bed, it will smother all the grass. The grass will compost and become worm food, and your deeper-rooted plants will soften the hardpan. Save your back! Let the plants and worms do the work!

What soil should I use in the beds?

You want “garden blend” soil, which is half topsoil and half compost. Plants need the minerals of the dirt AND organic matter – don’t use just one or the other. You’ll need one cubic yard to fill a 4′x8′ bed 6-8″ deep.

Where should I get soil?

If you’re near Ann Arbor and you only need a couple yards of soil, I’d order it from Lodi Farms. They’ll deliver small loads at a decent price. It will have some weeds in it (all bulk soil does) but they’re easy to remove. For larger loads, other places, like EZ Landscaping, are probably less expensive. The soil is all more or less the same quality, and all good enough to get started with.

Don’t raised beds dry out really fast?

I water mine deeply about once a week – twice if it’s really dry, not at all if we get a good rain. They seem to do just fine and they don’t “bake” any faster than the rest of the yard. And because the soil’s so loamy, it doesn’t get compacted like the rest of my clay yard does.

Is it better to put all the plants of the same family in one bed, or spread them around?

I like putting them into one bed for two reasons: it makes crop rotation easier, and similar plants often need similar protection. So, I can fence the beans easily, and cover all the brassicas to keep out the caterpillars. Other folks like mixing up the plant families to explore companion planting, or to prevent pests and diseases from moving like wildfire through all the plants of that family. It’s up to you – both approaches have advantages!

Do I have to worry about crop rotation this year? I’m getting overwhelmed!

Personally, I think it’s much more important to get out there and start your first garden than to worry about rotating crops your first year or two. Crop rotation is certainly a concern as you think about long-term sustainability. If you plant the same crop in the same place year after year, it will deplete the soil of its favorite nutrients, and it’s possible that diseases and pests will build up in the soil. So do think about it…but if it’s too much for this year, don’t sweat it.

See also:

Insane crop planning spreadsheet

Ok, you can blame Patti and Derrick – they asked for it! And I had to do something to keep up with Rob’s amazing garden bed rotation spreadsheet. So, here’s Emily’s Totally Insane Spreadsheet for Planning What to Plant to Live Out Of Your Garden. Also known as “can I feed my family on one acre?” (Answer: Yes. But you might not want to.) And yes, I realize I have waaaaaaay too much time on my hands.

It’s in GoogleDocs spreadsheet format. Click the little orange triangles for comments. Be sure to look at both sheets (tabs along the bottom) and scroll down – calorie crops are at the top and vegetables at the bottom. You should be able to click the GoogleDocs File menu and export it to your own GoogleDocs account, or to Excel or .csv format. Then you’ll be able to play with the numbers, add foods, etc. If you’re as big a geek as I am, this is the fun part.

The basic idea is it takes just short of a million calories to feed a person 2500 calories per day for a year. I’ve looked up the number of calories per pound of food, and the number of pounds of food that can grow in a square foot (using John Jeavons’s Biointensive raised-bed methods). Put in the number of people you’ll be feeding, and the spreadsheet keeps a running tally of how many calories you’ve planted and how many more you’ll need to grow to feed everyone for a year. As you’re planning, be realistic about what you like to eat, what you can store, what’s a pain in the butt to raise or process, and get a good variety so you don’t get scurvy or really, really sick of parsnips.

Even if you don’t intend to live off your 1/4 acre lot, this is eye opening. Think your 1000 sf tomato garden is great shakes? Calorie-wise, that’ll feed one person for two months. I’m growing wheat on a very, very small scale right now, and had been thinking of expanding. But looking at the scale needed, and the work involved in harvesting wheat by hand, makes me think what communities need is a central wheat farm with big machines and individual gardens full of potatoes and rutabagas (swedes).

Have fun kids!

Michigan fall garden

Even though my garden is essentially full right now, I’ve been wondering if I can plant yet more this year. I do have some dirt leftover and could always use another bed…but what could I plant now? And the winter wheat and first spring onions and peas will be out of the garden in a few weeks…so what should I plant in the spaces they vacate?

After a bit of searching, I found a nice guide to fall vegetable gardening in Michigan (pdf) from the MSU Extension office. It has planting and harvest dates, as well as some varieties to try.

I’ll be curious to see if this works. These are mostly “cool weather crops,” and it seems odd to plant them in late July, which is anything but cool here. Perhaps some shade netting is in order. I also have a hard time imagining planting kale, as the kale in the garden will keep going strong until December – or until I eat it all, which usually happens first. Hmm, though I suppose I could plant *more* of it and then maybe it would last…

I’m still pondering a greenhouse, but I can’t bring myself to look out into my yard and see a plastic quonset hut, and other options are really too expensive. This year I’m going to see if I can do something smaller and portable, perhaps just put plastic on my screen house to convert it into a mini-greenhouse for winter.

It’s not too late to start a garden!

Hey, all you northern folks! It’s not too late to start a garden this summer! Heck, all us early gardeners got bitten by a hard frost the last week in May, so you’re actually ahead of the game.

First, be sure you’ve got the basics covered: sun, soil, and water. Then the fun part: planting!

You can plant any summer crops right now and still expect a good harvest. You might try:

  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Eggplants
  • Beans
  • Squash – summer types like zucchini or yellow crookneck, winter types like acorn or butternut, cucumbers, melons, etc.
  • Carrots
  • Beets
  • Chard
  • Grains
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Quinoa

The following are usually “cool weather” crops but should do fine unless there’s a big heat wave soon:

  • Kale and broccoli (start from plants, not seeds, at this point)
  • Peas
  • Fennel
  • Potatoes

The only things I wouldn’t bother with at this point are lettuce and spinach – it’ll probably get too hot for them before they’re big enough to eat. Though if you can find some seedlings cheap, give it a whirl in a shady location. If the summer gets off to a cool start, they might do quite well!

My Seed (non-)Starting

GardenersSome years, I just can’t wait to get gardening. Sometime in February, I haul out the racks and lights and set up a Wall o’Sprouty Goodness in the yoga room. It makes me smile to exercise in the morning and see all the little seedlings.

This year…not so much. Allow me to list for you the seeds I will be starting indoors:

  • Kale
  • Broccoli
  • Chard?
  • Corni di Toro peppers…if I feel like it…but I can get something similar at the market…
  • Ummm…

And you know what? It’ll work out just fine. I’ll buy some organic heirloom tomato and lettuce seedlings at the market (we are so lucky to have this market) and maybe some leeks from the garden store. Most everything else will be seeded directly in the garden. And I can’t even think about that until the peas go in in April.

If I get itchy, I might plant some more stuff inside, or toss a cold frame out into the garden…hmmm, I could do my kale and such out there and skip indoor seeding altogether…that would be way easier than setting up the grow racks…

The take-away? Don’t get intimidated or guilty if you see the long lists of stuff people are planting indoors. That activity is as much for the sanity of the gardener as it is for the health of the garden. :)

Drag and Drop Garden Planner

Looking for a simple tool to plan a square-foot garden? Try my new drag-and-drop garden planner! You’ll need the latest Flash plugin for your browser. Each plant icon shows several phases of growth (optimized for US zones 5-6):

  • The colored dots show you how many to plant in one square foot. So, one eggplant per square foot, four lettuce plants, or sixteen carrots. The garden bed ix 4′x4′.
  • Click on each month to see what stage of growth the plants should have. When you see the seeds, for example, it’s time to plant the seeds out in the garden.
  • Most plants keep growing until October…though that will vary depending on when you get your first frost, and whether you cover your plants or not.

Comments, questions, and suggestions are welcome!

Garden Planner
Click image to begin gardening!
This is a very simple tool. If you are looking for something more fully-featured, check out http://www.growveg.com/ , which is the tool I’d dreamed of building…but someone else did first! UPDATE 3-21-12: Gardener’s Supply has a really nice one, too, and it’s free.

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